If you’ve read our Ubud Attractions and Guide, you’ll already know how much we love this part of Bali – the rice paddies, the slower pace, the way the air smells like frangipani and rain. That post is our full round-up of the best Ubud attractions. This one is different.
This is exactly how we spent 4 days in Ubud with our own two kids (Kylo, who’s at the very inquisitive four-year-old stage, and Zadie, our toddler), staying at Wapa di Ume Ubud, cooking classes and tantrums and all.
I’ve been visiting Bali for over 30 years now (half-Indonesian myself, and yes, I still learn something new every trip), and Ubud is one of the places we come back to again and again as a family. It’s not the place for beach clubs or nightlife – for that we’d point you to Uluwatu or Seminyak – but for slowing down, connecting as a family, and eating some of the best Indonesian food on the island, Ubud is hard to beat.
This itinerary is built around 4 days, which is genuinely the sweet spot if you’re travelling with kids and want a mix of culture, adventure and proper downtime. If you’re planning a longer Bali itinerary, this slots in beautifully as a second or third stop – we often pair it with Sidemen (we actually stayed at Wapa di Ume Sidemen on the same trip, sister property to the Ubud one) or wind it into our 10-day Bali itinerary.
Here’s exactly how our Ubud itinerary played out over the 4 days, plus what we’d tweak if we did it again.
Quick Answer: Our 4-Day Ubud Itinerary at a Glance
- Day 1: Arrive in Ubud, Ubud Market and Monkey Forest, settle into Wapa di Ume Ubud
- Day 2: Campuhan Ridge Walk, private cooking class, Ume Spa, BBQ cultural dinner with traditional dance
- Day 3: Full-day tour – Tegalalang Rice Terrace, Ulun Pertamu waterfall and cave, lunch at Huma Cafe
- Day 4: Day trip to Kintamani – coffee plantation, Paperhills, optional Toya Devasya hot springs
Wapa di Ume Ubud – Where we stayed!
🏆 9.5 rating on booking.com
We stay in the private pool family villa, which was perfect. The staff here were so amazing with the kids! We did on-site private cooking class and bbq cultural dinner which were incredible!
Where We Stayed: Wapa di Ume Ubud
We stayed at Wapa di Ume Ubud in a one-bedroom private pool villa with a terrace that looked straight out over the rice paddies. It’s the kind of view that makes you stop mid-conversation. Our villa had an outdoor shower, a bath inside dressed with a floral arrangement and frangipani petals, and the team set up a full daybed for Kylo without us even having to ask.
The resort itself is big and spread out, with two communal pools – one close to our villa, and an infinity pool you reach by crossing a little bridge – plus an on-site restaurant, Mr Wayan, and Ume Spa tucked into the grounds. There’s also a gamelan set up in the restaurant that Kylo could not get enough of.
Is it good for families? Genuinely one of the better family set-ups we’ve stayed at in Bali. Staff remembered our kids’ names and favourite fruits by the second day, the daily activities are genuinely tailored for kids (not just tolerated), and the grounds are safe enough that we felt comfortable letting Kylo roam a little on the walking paths.
Day 1: Arrival, Ubud Market and Monkey Forest
If you time your arrival for late morning or early afternoon, Day 1 is a great day to ease into Ubud with a wander through Ubud Market and an afternoon at the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, before finishing with a slow walk around town as the sun goes down. The market is a proper sensory hit – bright batiks, woven baskets, silver jewellery – and it’s an easy, low-effort way to get your bearings before you head into busier days. The Monkey Forest is a genuine highlight for kids (with firm “we look, we don’t touch” rules).
Honestly? That’s the plan we’d recommend – and it’s not quite what happened for us. Our driver Wayan picked us up from Nisi Villas in Uluwatu and we stopped for lunch at Sanur on the way, and between the drive and the stop (or a few toilet breaks etc) we didn’t roll into Wapa di Ume Ubud until about 5:30pm.
By then the kids were well and truly done for the day, so Ubud Market and Monkey Forest got pushed( plus we had been there many times before), and we went straight into settle-in mode instead. If there’s one tip I’d give you from our Day 1, it’s this: build in more buffer than you think you need for the drive, especially with little ones in the car = toilet breaks, food breaks and Pepito spots.
What we got instead was one of the warmest hotel welcomes we’ve had in Bali. We were greeted at reception with watermelon juice and a fruit plate – watermelon, papaya and pineapple – plus cool towels, which the kids demolished before we’d even seen the room. Zadi and Kylo are both obsessed with watermelon, so this was an instant win.
Because it was so late, we ordered room service from Mr Wayan, the on-site restaurant. I love when a mie goreng comes loaded up with extras, and this one didn’t disappoint – fried egg, fried prawn, a chicken leg, sambal and satay on the side, so everyone could pick at whatever they wanted. I also got a soto ayam, and we ordered chicken wings and rice for Kylo.
Everything was delicious, and honestly, after a long travel day, eating in our own villa overlooking the rice paddies in the dark was exactly what we needed.
Tip: If your flight or drive timing means you’ll also arrive later than planned, don’t stress about squeezing in Ubud Market and Monkey Forest on Day 1. Both are easy to slot into Day 3 or 4 instead, or on your way out of Ubud if you’re heading further east.
Day 2: Campuhan Ridge Walk, Cooking Class, Spa and BBQ Cultural Dinner
This was our busiest(but wholesome) and, honestly, our favourite day of the whole trip.
Morning: Campuhan Ridge Walk
We started early with the Campuhan Ridge Walk, Ubud’s most famous stroll – about 2km one way along a ridge lined with alang-alang grass, with wide, open views over the valley in both directions. Going early meant we had cooler air and softer light, and far fewer people on the path. It’s paved but not super stroller-friendly, so if you’ve got a toddler, a soft-structured carrier is your best friend here. There’s very little shade, so we made sure to load up on hats and water beforehand.
We woke up to a beautiful view of the rice paddies from our villa before we even left for the walk, which set the tone for the whole morning.
Breakfast and a Family Swim
Back at Wapa di Ume, we walked to breakfast and had a bit of everything – omelettes, congee, a fruit and granola bowl. While we ate, the kids played on the gamelan in the restaurant (Kylo especially loves this). Afterwards we had a family swim in our private pool, then wandered the grounds a little to properly check out the resort – it’s bigger and more spread out than it looks from the villa, with those two communal pools I mentioned earlier.
Our Private Cooking Class
Next up was mine and Kylo’s cooking class, and it was genuinely one of the best experiences of the whole trip. We were given a choice of two menus and went with seafood soup, a chicken curry, and pandan pancakes with coconut and palm sugar.
The class was completely private, with Chef Au from Mr Wayan joining us along with Las Mini, a waitress we’d already met (and loved) at breakfast. We started with fresh aromatics laid out in front of us – shallots, garlic, lemongrass, lime leaves, chillies – plus a dish of whole spices so we could see and smell them in their raw form before grinding, rather than the pre-ground versions we’re used to at home.
➡️ Want to do a Cooking Class? – Check price and availability here
Kylo chopped the shallots, I worked through the turmeric, galangal, ginger and garlic, and then we ground everything down together using a mortar and pestle – Kylo’s favourite part by a mile. We chopped the seafood (prawns, squid, tuna) and vegetables, and got cooking. Zadie joined us briefly with Matt, who was on nap-duty in the room and around the hotel while we cooked.
When it came time to taste the soup, it was delicious – Kylo said he liked it but, true to his current picky-eater phase, didn’t eat much. He was still proud he’d cooked it himself, which counts for a lot. I saved Matt a bowl to try later, since he’d stayed back for Zadie’s nap.
The curry came together beautifully (we’d made the bumbu paste earlier during the soup stage), though again Kylo mostly stuck to rice and chicken. What I loved was the setting itself – the outdoor cooking area is surrounded by veggie gardens full of lemongrass, herbs and dragon fruit, so there was always something for Kylo to look at between steps. Chef Au and Las Mini were incredibly patient with him around the knives, which let me actually focus on the cooking instead of hovering.
The pandan pancakes were the highlight for Kylo – he did the whisking, and Las Mini, who’d clocked earlier that our kids love strawberries, surprised him with a bowl of them plus banana to add on top. That was the one dish he ate every last bite of.
Location: On-site at Wapa di Ume Ubud
Best Time: Late morning
Cost: Included with certain packages, or bookable separately (ask at reception)
Tip: Ask for a private class if travelling with young kids – ours meant we could go at Kylo’s pace
Is this kid-friendly? Yes, and genuinely one of the best Ubud restaurants and cooking experiences we’ve done with a child in tow
Ume Spa
While Matt took the kids, I had a massage booked at Ume Spa, which is beautifully done out inside. Afterwards I had a floral bath with ginger tea and biscuits brought to me – a proper reset in the middle of a busy day.
The kids joined at the end and I’d hoped to recreate a photo we’d taken in the bath at Wapa di Ume Sidemen the year before. No such luck – Zadie has developed a sudden fear of flowers in the bath (no idea why), and Kylo, in true little-brother fashion, decided he wasn’t getting in either if she wasn’t. So the photos are just of me this time. Can’t win them all.
Once Zadie woke from her nap, we had a swim in the other two pools, which was a fun way to burn the last of everyone’s energy before dinner.
BBQ Cultural Dinner
That evening we’d booked into the BBQ cultural dinner Wapa di Ume was hosting, with three or four traditional dancers performing throughout the night. Kylo was completely in awe watching the dancers, and then a masked performer came out with long fingernails for one of the more theatrical pieces – which was a little much for Zadie, who stayed snuggled in Matt’s arms for that part.
There was an audience participation segment, and despite my best efforts to avoid eye contact, I got pulled up to copy the dance moves. Kylo thought it was hilarious, which honestly made the mild embarrassment worth it.
The BBQ spread itself was excellent and very Indonesian in style – chicken satay, a whole fish dish, grilled corn, potato wedges, beef rendang, pork ribs and a soup. We didn’t stay for the final few dances since the kids were fading, but the team packaged up dessert (Biscoff cake, fruit and sticky rice pudding) and had it delivered straight to our room. That’s the kind of small touch that makes travelling with kids so much easier.
Tip: If you’re travelling with a toddler who might be spooked by masks or loud performances, sit towards the back near an easy exit – we were glad we did.
Wapa di Ume Sidemen – Where we stayed!
🏆 9.5 rating on booking.com
We stay in the private pool family villa, which was perfect. The staff here were so amazing with the kids and bonus there’s even a playground with a trampoline down by the lake!
Day 3: Full-Day Ubud Tour – Rice Terraces, Waterfalls and a Cave
We started the morning with breakfast at the resort (Las Mini brought the kids strawberries again, unprompted – that’s the level of service here), then met our driver for a full day exploring outside Ubud itself.
We normally use a driver with a car seat for longer transfers between locations, but he doesn’t live in Ubud, so for this day trip I booked a local driver – also called Wayan, a registered tour guide based in Ubud. He was so knowledgeable and genuinely great with the kids that I’ll link his page for anyone wanting the same.
Tegalalang Rice Terrace
First stop was the Tegalalang Rice Terrace, which is every bit as beautiful in person as the photos suggest. We viewed it from a few different points, and I’d already done my research and knew I wanted coffee at Tis Tis Cafe, overlooking the terraces.
We’d only just had breakfast, so we kept it simple – coffees for us, a smoothie for Kylo – and just took in the view for a while. We did a short walk part-way down but didn’t take the kids further, since it gets muddy and slippery underfoot. Viewing from the top is honestly the easier (and still stunning) option with little ones.
Location: 20 minutes north of Ubud
Best Time: Morning, before it gets busy or too hot
Entry Fee: Small entry/donation at most viewing points
Tip: Skip the walk down if you’ve got young kids – the views from the top paths are just as good
Is this kid-friendly? Yes, with close supervision near the edges
➡️ Waterfall and Rice Terrace Tours – Check price and availability here
Ulun Pertamu Waterfall and Cave
From there we drove to Ulun Pertamu Waterfall, which Wayan recommended specifically because it’s more manageable with kids. There are only 90 steps down to reach it, compared with some of the bigger, more famous waterfalls in the area that involve a much longer, slippier trek – not ideal when you’re carrying a toddler.
On the way down there are ponds full of koi, ducks and ducklings, which the kids loved, plus a little stall selling drinks if you need a top-up. A few people were swimming, though it looked cold. The waterfall itself isn’t the biggest we’ve seen in Bali, but it’s genuinely lovely, and having an easier walk down made all the difference travelling as a family.
If you want to venture further, there’s a second waterfall and a cave accessible from the same spot. Kylo really wanted to keep going, even though it was edging into Zadie’s nap window, so we crossed a bridge and walked through the forest – past a lot of bamboo and a bamboo bridge worth a photo – to reach the cave entrance, where there’s a separate fee.
The cave was a little “smoky” as Kylo called it (instead of spooky 🥹), narrow in places, but with light points letting in enough natural light that it never felt claustrophobic.
The second waterfall is viewed from above via a small platform – you can cross another bridge to get closer, but it looked a bit too sketchy for us with kids in tow, and by that point we were well past our adventure quota for the day. Zadie was getting tired, so we made our way back through the cave and bamboo bridge, grabbed a few more photos at the first waterfall, and left a donation on the way out, which goes towards maintaining the site.
Location: Near Tegalalang, north of Ubud
Entry Fee: Approximately 75,000 IDR per adult for the waterfall, plus 10,000 IDR per adult for the cave (kids free at both)
Tip: Ask your driver for the more kid-friendly waterfall options – not all of them have manageable steps
Is this kid-friendly? Yes, particularly compared to Ubud’s bigger waterfalls, though the cave extension is better suited to slightly older, more confident kids
Lunch at Huma Cafe
By this point we were starving, so on the way back towards the hotel we stopped at Huma Cafe, a spot I’d found on Instagram and had been wanting to try. It overlooks rice paddies from a genuinely stunning vantage point, and if you head further into the cafe there’s an even more open view to sit out at. Zadie fell asleep in my arms almost the second we got in the car, so I did the world’s gentlest baby transfer onto a bench at the cafe while we ate.
We ordered nasi goreng (a dish we get at almost every meal in Bali, because Zadie loves it), a karage bowl for Kylo, a chicken katsu bowl for Matt, and my usual iced latte. Everything was excellent, and it’s easily one of our favourite Ubud restaurants for a rice-paddy view without the crowds of the more central cafes.
Location: Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud
Best For: Rice field views, peaceful setting, authentic Indonesian dishes
Is this kid-friendly? Yes, and quiet enough for a sleeping toddler on the bench next to you
Evening at the Hotel
Back at Wapa di Ume, we had an afternoon swim in our private pool and took another walk around the grounds – there’s a lovely pathway between the villas and the rice paddies where you’ll often spot ducks and, randomly, a resident cow, which the kids were very keen to see up close.
For dinner we went back to Mr Wayan. The kids got pizza, and the sunset that evening was genuinely beautiful – you can’t see a huge amount of open sky since you’re inland, but the colours over the rice paddies more than made up for it. I had the beef rendang, Matt had the butter chicken, and we called it an early night. The kids had a little dance party in the villa before bed, which is always a good sign of a day well spent.
Day 4: Day Trip to Kintamani
We’d originally booked a floating breakfast for our final morning, but it was raining – which, let’s be honest, happens in Bali – and by the time it looked like it might clear up, the kids were too hungry to wait it out. We made the call to skip it and have breakfast at the restaurant instead, which was still lovely (Kylo had pancakes, I had another omelette).
For our last full day, we headed up to Kintamani, which sits about an hour and a half from Ubud and gives you a genuinely different landscape – cooler air, volcanic views, and Mount Batur and Lake Batur dominating the horizon on a clear day.
➡️ Kintamani & Mt Batur Tours – Check price and availability here
Coffee Plantation Stop
On the way, we’d recommend building in a stop at one of the coffee plantations that line the route up to Kintamani. Most offer a free guided tour showing how the coffee (and often chocolate and tea) is processed, plus a tasting flight that usually includes the famous kopi luwak. Kids tend to love this stop more than you’d expect – seeing the civet cats, if the plantation keeps them, is a highlight, and it breaks up the drive nicely.
Is this kid-friendly? Yes – short, interactive, and a good stretch-the-legs stop on a longer drive
Paperhills
Our main stop was Paperhills, a large pool club and cafe perched with sweeping views over Mount Batur and a partial view of Lake Batur. It was raining on and off for most of the drive up, and I genuinely thought we’d driven all that way for nothing – but the clouds parted just enough for us to see most of the volcano (not quite the summit, but enough to be worth it).
The food here was better than we expected for a view-focused spot. We had coffees, Kylo ordered sushi, I got nasi lemak (fried chicken with egg and rice), and Matt had chicken tacos. There’s also a playground on site, which meant we ended up staying much longer than planned – always the sign of a good family stop. We picked up some baked goods to take with us for the rest of the day too.
Location: Kintamani, roughly 1.5 hours from Ubud
Best Time: Late morning through lunch, for the clearest volcano views
Is this kid-friendly? Yes – genuinely one of the better family-friendly stops in the Kintamani area, thanks to the playground
If You Want More: Toya Devasya Hot Springs
If your kids have more energy left in the tank (or you want to turn this into a slower half-day rather than a quick lunch stop), Toya Devasya Hot Springs is close by and set up well for families – mineral pools at varying temperatures, waterslides, a dedicated kids’ pool, and views over Lake Batur and the surrounding volcanic landscape. Entry is roughly 300,000 IDR for adults and 200,000 IDR for children. We didn’t make it here ourselves this trip (Zadie’s nap schedule won out), but it’s high on our list for next time.
Is this kid-friendly? Yes – purpose-built with families in mind
More Things to Do in Ubud
Our 4 days were shaped around Wapa di Ume Ubud and this particular loop, but if you have extra time (or want to swap something in), here’s what we didn’t get to on this trip but would happily add on a return visit. We cover all of these in much more depth in our full Ubud Itinerary and Guide:
- Ubud Palace (Puri Saren Agung) – worth a daytime visit for the architecture and carved courtyards, or come back in the evening for a Legong dance performance
- Pura Tirta Empul – the holy water temple in Tampaksiring, about 30-40 minutes from Ubud. A moving spot to watch the purification ritual even if you don’t take part yourself
- A day club – if you want a slower half-day with a pool and rice terrace views, Cretya Ubud (near Tegalalang) and Jungle Club are both worth building into a spare afternoon
- White water rafting on the Ayung River – a cooler, more active alternative to a beach day, and doable with kids around age 7+ depending on the operator
- A yoga class – Ubud is Bali’s wellness capital for a reason. The Yoga Barn and Radiantly Alive both welcome drop-ins if you want to fit in a class between sightseeing
Where to Eat in Ubud
Between our own stops and the ones we’ve tried on other trips, here’s where we’d point you for Ubud restaurants and cafes:
- Mr Wayan (Wapa di Ume Ubud) – our go-to for both room service and sit-down dinners, excellent mie goreng and beef rendang
- Tis Tis Cafe – coffee with a Tegalalang rice terrace view
- Huma Cafe – quiet, rice-paddy views, excellent nasi goreng
- For a much longer list of our favourite spots, including family-friendly options with play areas, check out our Best Ubud Cafes guide
Indonesian food is honestly one of the best reasons to spend real time in Ubud rather than rushing through – if you want a broader introduction to the dishes we order on repeat, we’ve also written about our favourite Indonesian food to try in Bali.
Bali with Kids: Our Tips for Ubud
A few things that made this trip smoother, in case you’re planning your own:
- Build in more buffer time than you think you need. Our Day 1 taught us this the hard way – a “quick” stop for lunch turned a manageable drive into a very late check-in with two overtired kids.
- Ask for private classes and tours where you can. Our cooking class and our driver for Day 3 were both private, and it made an enormous difference to how relaxed the day felt with young kids in tow.
- Pack for nap schedules, not just activities. More than once we had to cut something short (the second waterfall, Toya Devasya) because it clashed with Zadie’s nap. Build slack into your itinerary rather than trying to fit everything in.
- Choose accommodation that treats kids as part of the experience, not an inconvenience. The difference between a hotel that tolerates children and one that genuinely welcomes them (strawberries at breakfast, a daybed set up without asking, patience during a cooking class) changes the whole trip.
If you’re travelling with a baby rather than a toddler, we’ve got a dedicated guide to travelling to Bali with a baby that covers a lot of the same logistics in more depth. And if you want the bigger picture on where else in Bali works well for families, our best family resorts in Bali round-up is a good next stop.
Practical Tips and Costs
A rough guide to what to budget for this stretch of your Ubud itinerary:
- Private driver (full day): IDR 600,000–800,000 (roughly USD 40–55)
- Waterfall entry: IDR 75,000 per adult, kids free
- Cave entry (Ulun Pertamu): IDR 10,000 per adult
- Coffee plantation tastings: Usually free with the guided tour, small fee for premium tastings like kopi luwak
- Toya Devasya Hot Springs: IDR 300,000 adults / IDR 200,000 children
If you’re trying to work out your overall Bali trip cost, accommodation is usually your biggest variable – a resort like Wapa di Ume Ubud sits at the higher end, while plenty of excellent family-friendly guesthouses and villas in Ubud come in well under that.
Our Verdict: Is 4 Days in Ubud Enough?
For us, yes – 4 days gave us enough time to properly settle in, do one big “adventure” day (Day 3), one slower cultural day (Day 2), and still leave room for a day trip further afield (Day 4) without feeling rushed. If you’re travelling with a baby or a toddler who naps twice a day, I’d lean towards 5 days if your schedule allows it, simply to give yourself more breathing room around nap times.
One thing worth planning for: our Day 4 in Kintamani wasn’t actually a there-and-back day trip from Ubud. We were continuing on to Munduk next, so we checked out of Wapa di Ume that morning and looped up through Kintamani on our way north, rather than doubling back to Ubud that evening.
If Ubud is your only base, you can absolutely do Kintamani as a proper day trip and return to your hotel that night. But if you’re building this into a longer Bali itinerary and heading further north or east afterwards (Munduk, Sidemen, or beyond), do what we did and treat Kintamani as the start of your route out – it saves you backtracking, and the drive up through the changing landscape is honestly one of the best parts of leaving Ubud.
Would we come back to Wapa di Ume Ubud? Without question. Between the cooking class, the spa, and the sheer level of care shown to our kids by the whole team, it’s one of the best family stays we’ve had in Bali.
FAQ
Is 4 days enough for Ubud? Yes, for most families 4 days is a good amount of time to cover the highlights – rice terraces, a cultural experience like a cooking class, a waterfall, and a day trip – without over-scheduling. If you’re travelling with a baby, consider 5 days for more downtime.
Is Ubud good for kids? Very much so. Between rice terrace walks, the Monkey Forest, family-friendly cooking classes, and resorts geared towards children, Ubud is one of the more relaxed parts of Bali to visit with kids, especially compared to the busier beach areas.
How do you get around Ubud with kids? A private driver is the easiest option for families, particularly for day trips outside the town centre like Tegalalang or Kintamani. Ubud’s town centre itself is walkable.
What’s the best waterfall near Ubud for kids? Ulun Pertamu was recommended to us specifically for its manageable 90 steps, compared with the longer, more slippery treks required at some of Ubud’s more famous waterfalls.
Planning a longer trip? This Ubud stretch fits neatly into a wider Bali itinerary – we’ve written extensively about the rest of the island too, from the best areas to stay in Bali to our full best things to do in Bali round-up. And if you’re exploring further afield across the archipelago, we’ve also covered some of our best places in Indonesia beyond Bali itself.
Let us know if you’re planning your own Ubud itinerary – drop a comment or message us for personalised recs!
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