I have stayed in a lot of hotels across a lot of Bali trips. I’ve woken up to rice field views in Ubud, watched the Indian Ocean from a clifftop in Uluwatu, and lounged around beautiful pools in Seminyak. I love Bali — it’s no secret. But I need you to know that nothing — not one single stay — has come close to what we experienced at Munduk Moding Plantation.
I’m going to come right out and say it: this is the best hotel I have ever stayed in. Not just in Bali. Not just among the best places in Indonesia. Full stop, on the entire planet, this is the best hotel I have ever stayed in. And not because it was the most luxurious but because the overall feelings it evoked. I left feeling so calm and so fulfilled.
By the time we were checking out on our last morning, I had done three laps of reception pretending to forget things, photographed the playground approximately forty times, and was quietly tearing up behind my sunglasses while Mahendra (more on him shortly) patiently loaded our bags into the car. Matt had to gently escort me off the premises. It was a lot.
We spent three nights at Munduk Moding Plantation as part of our Bali itinerary — arriving from Ubud via Kintamani after our stop at the volcano, before heading back down to Seminyak to finish our trip. It sits in the cool, lush highlands of northern Bali, about as far from the beach clubs and the busy streets of Canggu as you can get, and honestly? That contrast is exactly what makes it so special.
If you’re trying to figure out where to stay in Munduk, you can stop reading other hotel reviews. Just book this one. Here’s why.
Where Is Munduk Moding Plantation?
Munduk Moding Plantation is set in the highlands of northern Bali, near the village of Munduk at roughly 1,000 metres above sea level. It sits overlooking Lake Buyan — one of Bali’s twin crater lakes — and the views across the valley are the kind that make you forget what you were doing and just stand there with your mouth open.
The north of Bali is a completely different world to the south, and if your Bali itinerary only ever takes you to Ubud, Seminyak, Canggu, or the Uluwatu area, you’re missing something really significant. Up here, the vegetation shifts from the swaying palms and ricefields of the south to thick forest, cool mountain air, and working farms. There are coffee trees, cinnamon, pineapple, and crops that stretch across the hillsides. It genuinely doesn’t feel like Bali anymore — which sounds counterintuitive, but trust me when I say it’s one of the best areas in Bali you haven’t visited yet.
The plantation itself is a working coffee estate that has been converted into one of the most beautiful luxury resorts I’ve seen anywhere, and the whole property — from the villas to the restaurants to the sustainability programme — is built around the land it sits on.
Getting There
We drove from Kintamani, which took around an hour and a half along winding mountain roads. Our driver Wayan, who had been with us since Ubud (and who I cannot recommend highly enough — locking in a good private driver for your whole trip is one of the best decisions you can make in Bali), handled the whole journey and then helped us organise a separate local driver for our day trips from Munduk.
The road up to the plantation is narrow and steep in places, so if you’re driving yourself, go slowly and take your time. The hotel will help coordinate arrivals and can arrange transfers if needed.
Coming down to Seminyak at the end of our stay was a different experience — we hit significant traffic and it took far longer than expected, so build in extra time if that’s your final destination.
One more thing: if you’re wondering whether Munduk is worth the travel time from the south, I promise you — it is. The drive is stunning, and the journey itself is part of the experience.
First Impressions and Arrival
We rolled up at around 3pm on our first day. It was overcast, which meant the famous views were hiding behind cloud. What wasn’t hiding was how immediately and completely different this place felt from the moment we stepped out of the car.
The air was cool. Actually cool — like, I-wish-I’d-packed-a-light-jacket cool. That alone felt extraordinary after days in the heat of the south.
And then came the welcome.
The staff were waiting with gorgeous hydrangea floral necklaces — and hydrangeas are my absolute favourite flower, so I already felt like the universe had planned this specifically for me. Instead of the usual chilled arrival drink (cold hibiscus tea, watermelon juice — you know the drill), we were handed hot ginger tea. In the mountain cool at 3pm, it was exactly right. The towels were warm instead of cold. Every single detail had been flipped to suit the climate and the environment, and it immediately told me that this was a place that had actually thought about things properly.
First impressions: already the best arrival experience of our whole trip.
The Room: Passionfruit Villa
I don’t know how to write about the Passionfruit Villa without sounding like I work in their marketing department, but I promise I’m just a mum who loved a room very much.
We had a private pool and a jacuzzi, both wrapped in lush greenery, with views out to Lake Buyan and the mountains beyond — although on arrival those views were still tucked behind cloud. (What emerged over the next three mornings was progressively more incredible. More on that later.)
Inside: a massive bed, a fireplace (yes, genuinely, a fireplace — you will use it), and a bathroom at the back with a deep bath. Waiting for us was a beautiful fruit platter: snake fruit, grapes, strawberries. Our butler Mahendra had clocked that we had little ones and had already started organising a daybed for Kylo before we’d finished looking around. Zadie’s wooden cot was set up in the second room — the whole aesthetic of the place is eco-conscious and natural, and even the cot felt considered.
No air conditioning in the rooms, which sounds alarming until you arrive and realise you genuinely don’t need it — it’s that cool up there. There’s a humidifier if you want it. There’s also no fridge by default (eco policy), but the moment Mahendra realised we needed one for Zadie’s meals, it was at our door in under five minutes. Not “we’ll sort that for you.” Five minutes. Done.
And then there was the detail that won me over before we’d even checked in: about two weeks before arrival, the hotel had emailed to ask our pillow preference (firm, medium, or soft) and our preferred scent for hand soaps and hair products. We chose lemongrass. Just filling in that little form made the whole trip feel personal in a way that I loved — like they were already thinking about us before we’d packed a single bag.
Room Rates: Munduk Moding Plantation is a luxury property, and the rates reflect that. The luxury suite with afternoon tea runs around AUD $1,000 for three nights. The pool villa with private jacuzzi — our Passionfruit Villa — is around AUD $1,700 for three nights (that’s with two children, so for a couple it would be slightly different). Both rates include a la carte breakfast, which I’d value very highly given the quality and variety. I’ll talk more about value below, but the short answer is: yes. Worth it.
Mahendra: The Butler Experience
I need to dedicate an entire section to Mahendra, because he deserves it and frankly he deserves a raise.
When we arrived, he introduced himself as our dedicated butler for the entirety of our stay. We weren’t quite sure what that meant in practice — we figured maybe he’d drive the golf buggy and answer questions. We were very wrong about the scope of this role.
The daybed for Kylo, organised before we asked. The fridge, delivered within five minutes. The golf buggy waiting for us every morning to take us up to the restaurant for breakfast. Every request — and more often than not, every need we didn’t even know we had yet — Mahendra had already seen and sorted. He was warm and attentive without being intrusive, and he was wonderful with the kids in that completely natural, genuine way that the Balinese have with children.
I’ve experienced beautiful service all over Bali over many trips, and one of the biggest reasons I keep coming back to this island is the warmth of the people — the way they deliver everything with a real smile, a real kindness. But the team at Munduk Moding Plantation took that to a level I hadn’t experienced before. It felt considered. It felt personal. And it made every moment of our stay feel genuinely looked after.
Dining at Munduk Moding Plantation
Breakfast at Mimpi
Breakfast is included in your stay and is served at Mimpi, the main restaurant, which sits at the top of the property with panoramic views of the lake and the mountains beyond. Getting up for breakfast here was an event in itself.
On day one, the cloud had partially cleared and we could see the lake and the little towns in the valley below. By day two, the sky was crystal clear. By day three — our last morning — we could see all the way to the mountains of Java on the horizon. Mount Bromo. Mount Ijen. From our breakfast table in Bali. I nearly choked on my coffee when they pointed it out.
Breakfast is a la carte and unlimited, and the selection is genuinely one of the best I’ve experienced in Bali: granola bowls, omelets, scrambled eggs, avocado toast, pancakes, waffles, smoothie bowls, and my personal highlight — congee. There is something about congee on a cool mountain morning that is just perfect. The kids had smoothies every single morning, which they were thrilled about. This is excellent value when it’s rolled into your room rate — don’t underestimate it.
Mimpi Restaurant (Dinner)
Our first night we ate dinner at Mimpi. Even with a moody, cloudy sky, it was a beautiful atmosphere with specks of sunset light breaking through. The kids had pizza (their Bali default — I’m not proud of it but I’ve accepted it). We were given complimentary chips and sambal as a starter, which is always a yes from me. I had a sate that came with tempeh, boiled egg, shredded chicken, and sambal on the side. Matt had what appeared to be a tempeh curry with rice. Both were delicious.
We came back to the room to find turndown service had been done: chocolates in a little silver box and a handwritten note that said “sweet dreams.” I put the note in my bag. I’m not even slightly embarrassed.
Warung Bongkot (Balinese Restaurant)
Munduk Moding has a second restaurant dedicated entirely to Balinese cuisine — Warung Bongkot — and it’s tucked at the lower end of the property next to the second pool, a jacuzzi, and a fire pit. We ate here on night two, and it was one of the best Indonesian food experiences of the whole trip.
Because Zadie’s nap had been short, we went early and were the only ones there. While we waited, the kids climbed around the fire pit area (supervised, obviously), and the mist had completely rolled in by this point so we were genuinely sitting inside the clouds. The staff lit the fire. It was magical.
Me and Matt shared the Ayam Betutu, which came with three different sambals — I remember a turmeric-based one among them — served with turmeric rice, red rice, and nasi putih, plus a side of vegetables. Beautiful, properly Balinese food, the kind you don’t find at the tourist restaurants. The kids, as you’ve probably guessed, had pizza and mie goreng.
Room Service (Don’t Sleep On This)
On our second afternoon, while Zadie napped and Matt and Kylo were doing their kite making class, I ordered the Japchae from the room service menu — a Korean beef noodle dish — and it was one of the best things I ate on the entire trip. Possibly the best Japchae I’ve ever had. I sat in the villa, in the mountain quiet, with my very excellent noodles, and felt genuinely at peace with the world. When Zadie woke up, she had the leftovers and was equally enthusiastic.
We also did room service burgers on our last night, too tired to move after a full day of activities. Also good. Room service that’s actually good is underrated at hotels — this one delivers.
Afternoon Tea
On our second afternoon, afternoon tea was delivered to our villa unprompted: a hot chocolate for me, a cappuccino for Matt, plus mochi balls (not my texture, but Matt was happy), sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf, and cookies. It was a really lovely touch — the kind of extra that makes you feel genuinely cared for rather than just accommodated.
Activities at Munduk Moding Plantation
Here is where things get really good for families. There is an extraordinary amount to do on-site at Munduk Moding, and much of it is complimentary as part of your stay — similar to the model at Wapa di Ume Sidemen, which has a similarly impressive activities programme. You receive a schedule on arrival and book via WhatsApp, which is seamless and completely stress-free.
The Coffee Plantation Tour (Complimentary)
This was one of the genuine highlights of our entire Bali trip and hands-down one of the best things to do in Bali if you have any interest in where your morning coffee actually comes from.
A guide walks you through the plantation grounds — which are beautifully lush and green and far bigger than they look from your villa — explaining the entire process from growing to harvest to processing to your cup. I had pictured coffee plants in orderly vineyard-style rows. They grow nothing like that — the coffee trees are scattered throughout a mix of other plants, trees, and crops, all growing together. We spotted cinnamon trees, pineapple plants, and herbs used directly in the on-site restaurants. It felt genuinely alive and wild in the best possible way.
The tour ends at the Bamboo Clubhouse for a proper coffee tasting — around ten different varieties laid out, including Luwak coffee, plus washed, honey, and natural blend variations among others.
I tried a couple, but I need my milk and sugar so black tasting wasn’t entirely a pleasant taste for me. But the experience itself? Brilliant. And when the kids started getting restless, the staff didn’t miss a beat — the tour guide took Zadi for a walk while another team member produced cookies for Kylo, without being asked. That, in a nutshell, is Munduk Moding Plantation.
Canang Sari Making (Complimentary)
If you’ve been to Bali, you’ll know canang sari — those small, beautiful flower offerings you see placed on footpaths, at temple entrances, and on the ground outside shops and homes, every single morning. Getting to actually make them was something I didn’t know I needed.
Our instructor Bella was endlessly patient with Kylo (truly, a saint) and we were both genuinely proud of what we created. I learned something I hadn’t known before: the colours in a canang sari each represent one of the four cardinal directions. Orange for east, white for north, red for south, blue or purple for west. I think about that every time I see them on the street now. It completely changes how you look at them.
Kite Making (Complimentary)
Kylo and Matt did the kite making class together on day two while Zadie napped. They worked hard. They were proud. On our last afternoon, we attempted to fly it. It immediately crashed into something and got a hole in it. We all thought it was very funny. 10/10, would attempt again.
Horse Riding
The stable area at Munduk Moding has horses — and I believe goats, rabbits, and what may have been a donkey — and Kylo did a horse riding lesson that he absolutely loved. For a kid who is animal-obsessed, this was one of the highlights of the whole trip. It’s one of those activities that sounds unexpected at a hotel and feels completely at home on a working plantation.
The Spa
I had a massage at the on-site spa while the boys were at the kite making class, and it was exactly what I needed. The spa is beautifully integrated into the landscape — quiet in a way that spa treatments in busier parts of Bali often aren’t, because up here the whole environment is just still and peaceful. One of my favourite hours of the trip.
Tennis, Gym, Paddle, Yoga, and More
The list of on-site facilities is genuinely impressive: daily yoga (complimentary), a stunning gym with a bamboo roof and proper equipment, tennis courts (we played a game on our last morning and it was so fun), paddle courts, vegetable gardens to explore, and the incredible bamboo clubhouse structure at reception with a playground underneath that the kids used every time we passed. There are also paid activities like cooking classes for those who want to go deeper.
The Sustainability Programme
One thing that genuinely moved me was the on-site workshop where the hotel collects plastic waste, processes it through a machine that melts and presses it into flat boards, and then uses those boards to make products — signs, coat hangers, frames, tissue boxes, chairs. Once you know about it, you start spotting those products everywhere on the property: in the lobby, in your room, in the restaurant. This hotel genuinely walks the walk on sustainability, and as someone who thinks about that when I travel, it mattered to me.
Day Trips from Munduk Moding Plantation
On our second full day, Wayan (our Ubud driver) helped us arrange a local Munduk driver — Made — who arrived with watermelon and pineapple that his wife had prepared and packaged for us. I will never get used to the generosity of the Balinese people and I hope I never do.
Ulun Danu Beratan Temple
A floating temple on the edge of Lake Beratan, about 45 minutes from Munduk Moding, and absolutely worth visiting. The grounds are large and beautiful, the temple itself is incredibly photogenic against the lake, and there’s fish feeding (Rp10,000 — the kids went absolutely feral for it in the best possible way), playgrounds, and cafes on-site.
Entry: Rp75,000 per adult. Kids were free when we visited.
Tip: Go in the morning for the best light and the clearest reflections on the water. The lake can cloud over by afternoon.
Banyumala Twin Waterfall
I want to be completely honest with you here, because that’s what this blog is for: this waterfall is genuinely beautiful, and also not a casual stroll if you’re travelling with babies and toddlers.
From the car park, there’s already a significant walk just to the ticket gate. Then there’s a descent to the waterfall itself that involves uneven steps and some genuinely slippery sections. It’s doable — we did it — but you need to be prepared and go slowly. Zadie had to be carried for parts of it, and Kylo was very much done on the way back up and needed creative bribing to keep moving.
Once you’re there: it’s a twin waterfall and it’s really pretty. It was also quite crowded when we visited, which made getting photos without people in them tricky (although we did manage a few good ones at the end). There’s a second waterfall on the other side that’s worth a quick look too.
Entry: Rp50,000 per adult, kids free when we visited.
Honest tip for families: Go earlier in the day, wear shoes with grip, and bring a carrier for little ones for the rougher sections.
Wanagiri Viewpoint — And Why We Skipped It
The Wanagiri viewpoint overlooks Bali’s twin lakes — Buyan and Tamblingan — and the view is lovely. But when we got there, they were charging Rp150,000 per person just to walk to the photo spot. Per person. For a photo.
We parked slightly further up the road and found a perfectly good view of the twin lakes from there for free. I’ll let you make your own call — but personally, a Rp150,000 entry fee for a photo stop didn’t sit right with me, and we didn’t feel like we missed out.
Jatiluwih Rice Terraces
We stopped here on the drive back towards Seminyak, and I’m so glad we didn’t skip it. Jatiluwih is vast — much bigger than you expect — and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We timed it perfectly: the rice was days away from harvest and had turned that gorgeous golden-yellow colour. If you visit when the fields are freshly planted or post-harvest, there’s much less to see, so check ahead.
We had lunch at Catavacca, a restaurant with a wonderful view over the terraces. Complimentary cassava chips, great coffee, and a nasi campur that I was very happy about. Matt had ayam betutu with rice. The kids had, as you have probably come to expect, pizza.
You can do Jatiluwih as a day trip from Ubud as part of your ubud itinerary, or fold it into your north Bali route like we did: Ubud → Kintamani → Munduk → Jatiluwih → Seminyak. Highly recommend that as a full itinerary loop.
Is Munduk Moding Plantation Worth It?
Yes. But let me actually break it down for you, because I know “luxury hotel in Bali” can cover an enormous range.
Here’s what’s included or what you’re getting for the price at Munduk Moding Plantation:
- A la carte breakfast, included, daily — unlimited, excellent variety, with those views
- A dedicated butler for your villa — not a shared concierge, your person, for your entire stay
- A full complimentary activities programme — coffee tour, yoga, canang sari, kite making and more
- Afternoon tea delivered to your villa
- Nightly turndown service
- Pre-arrival personalisation — pillow preference, scent preference, kids’ setup
- Genuinely stunning villa accommodation with private pool and jacuzzi
- Views that evolve over the course of your stay in the most satisfying possible way
The Passionfruit Villa with pool and jacuzzi runs around AUD $1,700 for three nights with two children. The luxury suite with afternoon tea included is around AUD $1,000 for three nights.
When you factor in the included breakfast (which at a hotel of this quality would easily cost AUD $40–$60 per person elsewhere), the activities, and everything else — this is exceptional value for a luxury property. If you’re weighing up the best family resorts in Bali and wondering whether to spend more on fewer nights or stretch your budget to stay longer, my advice is the latter: stay longer.
We’ll be doing four nights minimum on our next visit.
Practical Tips for Your Stay
- Stay at least three nights. Two feels rushed. Four would be the sweet spot. The activities alone could fill three days, and then there are the day trips.
- Pack a layer. Evenings and mornings are genuinely cool. I didn’t have a jacket and I missed having one.
- Be patient with the views. Our first afternoon was completely cloudy. By our third morning, we were watching the sun come up over the mountains of Java. It gets better the longer you stay.
- Book activities via WhatsApp on arrival. Everything is coordinated through WhatsApp and it’s seamless — you get a schedule and just pick what you want to do.
- Request a fridge on arrival if you have young ones. They’ll get it to you within minutes.
- Try the Japchae on room service. Non-negotiable.
- Coordinate your day trips through the hotel. They helped us organise our local driver and it was completely effortless.
- Get up for breakfast every morning. Obvious, I know, but don’t be tempted to sleep through it. The views change every day and you’ll regret missing a single morning up there.
My Honest Verdict
I got emotional at checkout. That is my review.
Munduk Moding Plantation gave us something that I think every family holiday should have but rarely does: the feeling that you are completely, genuinely looked after. That every detail has been thought about. That the people around you actually care whether you’re having a good time. That the place you’re staying in means something, was built with intention, sits on the land it belongs to and gives back to it.
We arrived as tired parents who’d been on the road for a few days. We left as a family who didn’t want to leave, who talked about it the whole drive back to Seminyak, and who are already planning the return trip.
If you’re putting together your Bali itinerary and you’ve been wondering where to stay in Munduk — stop wondering. Book Munduk Moding Plantation. Stay four nights. Try the Japchae. Let Mahendra organise everything. Watch the views get better every single morning.
And budget some extra time at checkout, because you’re going to need it.
Want to plan your whole Bali trip around this? Read my full Munduk Bali guide for everything else the area has to offer, or check out my Bali itinerary for how to put together the perfect north-meets-south Bali trip with or without kids.
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